我們每年都大約三月,四月來義大利(拖到十一月才寫),主要是可以切斷法國還春寒料峭時,義大利的春燕早已降臨,另一個重點是此時還屬淡季,旅行起來逾越多了

這次我們更往南走,去拿波里這一週圓旅行,包括了拿玻里,Herculaneum 羅馬古城龐貝古城,Ischia 溫泉島,蘇蘭多,卡布利島,阿瑪菲海岸,總共天數為十二晚,十三天,整體來說,這個天數對喜歡悠遊的我們,還算輕鬆

 

 

拿坡里:

一往義大利南部走,就會有人醒示:黑手黨,不安全

這種壞聲明不是沒道理的,Mike說美國的黑手黨大都是拿坡里來的,但也許是中心並不是黑手黨掌控的範圍,總之,一般觀光客走動的地區,並沒有感受太大的“威脅”或危機處處

當然還是可以看到不少市容的“亂象” ,例如到處可見的街頭塗鴉,狹窄人潮擁擠的小巷,可是另一方面又見到拿波里歷史,建築,文化豐富的一樣,多數人在這城市停留時間不長,我們前前後後還是住了五個晚上,卻還是意猶未盡,接著慢慢來介紹這個擁有悠遠而繁複歷史的城市吧

 

我們所住的區域叫Spaccanapoli ,這是中心,十分的方便,也安全,門口小個小舊貨攤,擺了張珍納露露布莉姬妲(巴黎聖母院的女主角)的老照片,出入都看到這位5,60 年代的美麗豔星照

街道上也許多小乾肉舖,甜食舖,雜貨舖,熙熙攘攘的,十分熱鬧,饒富趣味

當地有名的小甜點,長得有點像蚌,一次進去商店買,裡面的一位中年男士,堅持要幫我付帳,也只有南義大利才有的熱情吧

這種蘭姆巴巴到處都賣,也是拿坡里典型甜點

我們的公寓正對面是十四世紀所見的教堂和修道院,每每下樓梯這座十三世紀的鐘樓就近在眼前,修道院裡有著十分令人炫目華麗的彩繪磁磚的內庭,我們一直留到離開前的半天才就近參觀

 

Street signs on the corner next to our apartment building give a sense for the crumbling façades of much of the city, even in the "good" districts, such as here in the Spaccanapoli neighbourhood.

19th century buildings from the Spanish colonial period

 

 

 

 

The Piazza del Gesù Nuova also has a fine Baroque fountain built by the Jesuits in the mid-18th century.

 

The exteriours of many buildings on the street are well-worn, but in contrast, just next to our apartment was the 16th century Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo with its impossibly resplendent Baroque interiour.

In fact, the building was erected during the Italian Renaissance, but the interiour was renovated after a fire in the 17th century. Note the classical proportions of the arches and dome.

The simple exteriour of the church completely belies the interiour.

A lovely image at the corner of the arches and dome.

The square Piazza Gesù near our hotel is a frequent base for small vendors and street entertainers.

A "picture" of the plaza in front of Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo.

 

After lunch we took a walk to visit the superb Museo Archeologico Nazionale with its stunning collection of Roman artworks and artifacts from the excavated cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Here we paused along the way to take a photo of this lovely hotel lobby.

 

Here we passed this beautiful classical façade on an old (abandoned?) church.

 

 

The Piazza was originally conceived to be monument to Napoléon, whose brother-in-law Murat was the King of Naples for seven years until the emperor was deposed. Several years later the piazza was dedicated to the day when Naples joined a unified Italy. The building in the photo, modelled after the Pantheon in Rome is a church whose colonnade is clearly inspired by Saint Peter's Square in the Vatican.

The Caffè Gambrinus just next to the Piazza del Plebiscito was a high-class coffeehouse at the end of the 19th century, attracting many artists and writers. Today, it still serves delicious coffee and deserts in a refined historic ambience.

 

The main entrance to the Palazzo is on the Piazza del Plebiscito.

 

Walking around the interiour courts of the Palazzo, we poked our heads in the entrance of the museum there and gaped at this very fine Renaissance atrium.

In the pretty garden adjacent to the Palazzo Reale.

The massive Castel Nuovo ("New Castle"), a medieval fortification-plus-palace which served as the locus of many power struggles over the subsequent centuries for control of Naples.

The graceful original entrance to the famous Teatro di San Carlo opera house, just next to the Palazzo.

Naples has plenty of monumentl historical buildings to look after. Here, next to the waterfront, is the long side of the impressively grand Palazzo Reale ("Royal Palace") built by the Spanish in the early 17th century in late-Renaissance style.

From a pleasant walk to the bayfront we could clearly see how close to the city is the famous volcano Mount Vesuvius. The dip at the peak is presumably what blew off during the eruption in 79 A.D.

 

 

 

 

 

Across the street from the Palazzo and opera house is the impressive Galleria Umberto I. It was built at the end of the 19th century and was inspired by the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, built 25 years earlier in Milan.

 

Further along Via Toledo is the Piazza Municipio. There is always a market or entertainment act here.

 

Deep fried seafood snacks in the market of Mercato Pignasecca.

 

 

 

 

 

Just behind the market the streets become very narrow and climb the hill of residential district, the Spanish Quarter.

The Quartieri Spagnoli ("Spanish Quarter") with its narrow streets is unlike the rest of Naples. It has a rather unpleasant reputation, but we enjoyed seeing this slice of very local Neapolitan life.

The next morning we spent some time walking the areas around the main street of Via Toledo, and discovered lots of idiosyncratic local sites, like this brass street lamp.

Find any album:

 

 

 

After emerging from the underground we took the funicular up to the highest point in Naples, the site of the monumental medieval fort Castel Sant'Elmo. The views were rather cloudy but still let us view Vesuvius in the distance.

 

 

One of the more unusual attractions in Naples is Napoli sotterranea ("Underground Naples"), a guided tour through layers of history.

Descending the 40 meters to the chambers beneath street level.

 

Originally dug out by the Greeks as a quarry of building stones, the many galleries and chambers were used by successive generations for different purposes. This room was used as a bomb shelter during WWII.

Eventually, we walked through some catacomb-like passages from the Roman era

A couple of the chambers are filled with water, an indication that there were cisterns hereto collect and supply water for both the Greeks and Romans.

The square blocks set on a diagonal are distinctively a Roman architectural feature.

 

 

In another part of the Spaccanapoli quarter (the Old City), we came upon these people preparing for some kind of religious procession.

 

The pizzeria Da Michelle is famous for locals as well as tourists. We waited outside the restaurant for an hour, for them to call our number.

The two varieties of pizza they serve up (only two!) are delicious and cheap. The one here is pizza margharita (tomato, mozzarella & basil).

This is pizza marinara (tomato sauce, garlic & oregano). Delicious!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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